It is hard work warding evil spirits from the streets of Bulgaria. You have to dress up in an elaborate furry costume. Put on a belt carrying 50 bells, weighing up to 80 kilos. Then you have to roam through the town, singing and dancing to the rhythm of the drum. This is how you become a kuker, and participate in the traditional kukeri rituals held throughout Bulgaria in mid-winter.
The largest gathering takes place in Pernik, near Sofia. The event is officially known as the Surva International Festival of the Masquerade Games. Aside from it being the biggest day of the year for tinnitus, this is one of my all time favourite festivals. Read on to find out how you can visit Bulgaria’s biggest kukeri festival. And maybe even take part.
What Are Kukeri Rituals?
You hear the Kukeri before you can see them. A clanking of bells, the beating of a drum, voices singing folk songs. The streets start to tremble as they come into view. They are dressed in elaborate costumes made of fur, sequins, and intricate masks, some of which tower above their heads. These masks are often carved to resemble animals, representations of protective spirits that have the power to drive away evil. The kukeri parade around town. They put on performances, chanting and jumping so that the bells on their belts cause an epic clanging din.
Kukeri rituals are an ancient Bulgarian tradition held throughout the country around the time of New Year or just before Lent. They date back to the country’s pagan past, although there is some debate about how exactly these traditions originated.
Some associate kukeri with pre-Christian Thracian traditions, worshiping Dionysus, the god of wine and festivity. Others link it to mumming traditions, during which amateur actors put on plays, usually around Christmas time.
The exact rituals and costumes vary throughout Bulgaria. So does the name of the festival, which can be known as survakari, babugeri, starci or chaushi, depending on where you are. However, some themes return over and over again in the dances and performances: the battle of good against evil, the cycle of life, marriage, and sex.
Kukeri used to be only unmarried men, however today the entire population takes part. Children, women and old men parade the streets. This is partly due to evolving gender roles, but also because the Bulgarian countryside faced a mass exodus after the end of the communist period. Women, children end the elderly were some of the only people left to uphold the traditions.
As most of the villages and the towns hold their own kukeri rituals, there are plenty of opportunities to see them. In Bansko, where I spend much of my time, kukeri take to the streets every 1st January. On the same day, the nearby town of Razlog holds the International Mummer Festival “Starchevata”, which is one of only two UNESCO recognized kukeri events. The second is the Surva Festival, held in Pernik during the last weekend of January.
What to See and Do at the Surva Festival ?
As we drove into Pernik on the day of the Surva Festival, we spotted a small hatchback carrying four people dressed in their enormous kuker costumes, squeezed against the windows. They may have driven for hours. Groups gather from all over the country for an event known, officially, as the International Festival of Masquerade Games. It is held from Friday to Sunday on the last weekend of January.
Village groups of between 30 and 50 people compete for the award of best masquerade group. They parade through the streets, and then perform in front of a panel of judges. In 2025, 12,000 people took part in the festivities.
There are bleachers along the parade route, so you can climb up and watch the kukeri go by. We arrived too late to get a spot near the judging area, which is where the performers go all out. As they are wearing up to 100 kilos of costume, the kukeri struggle to keep dancing the whole way through. The parade itself feels more like a staging area, and the real performances happen in front of the judges. Nonetheless, there is plenty of singing, canons, bell-ringing along the way, and the costumes are fascinating to see.
On a separate stage, there are performances from foreign groups, who don’t take part in the parade. These included a Greek convoy dressed in red lycra, and a Corsican group performing traditional dances..
Tons of people come into town to watch the event, and to enjoy the vast street food market that pops up. There are cauldrons of mulled wine, stacks of grilled meats, donuts and other fried things. Very tasty, if not very vegan-friendly.
A nearby craft market sells local handicrafts, including handmade kukeri. My boyfriend and me returned with ourselves in kukeri form, and they are now sitting on our bookshelves to protect us from the evil spirits.
FAQs Frequently Asked Questions about Bulgaria’s Kukeri Festival
Do you need tickets for the Kukeri festival?
The Surva festival is free and open to everyone. You don’t need to buy tickets before you go.
How much does the Surva festival cost?
The events themselves are free, and the market stands are very reasonably priced. You can expect to pay around 5 euros for a plate of grilled meats and salad.
How do you get to the Surva festival?
The Surva festival takes place in Pernik, a half hour drive from Sofia. If you’d like to rent a car in Bulgaria, I recommend Local Rent, which has very affordable options in Sofia.
As for public transport, buses depart from Sofia’s central bus station every half hour, and take 90 minutes. A better option is the train, which leaves every hour from Sofia central station and takes 55 minutes.
Where to park at the Surva festival?
Parking is free in Pernik. However, traffic police close many of the roads in the town centre on the days of the festival. The best option is to park in one of the carparks on the edge of town and walk in. We parked near the bus station, and it was just a 15 minute walk to reach the main festival grounds.
Can I take part in the Surva International Festival of the Masquerade Games?
To participate in the main parade of the Surva Festival, you need to join a local group in a Bulgarian town or village. For this, it would help to speak Bulgarian, and have some good local connections.
If you get a group together from your home country, you can also apply to perform on the secondary stage. Contact the Surva festival to find out how.
Quick Tips For Visiting the Surva Festival
Bring Earplugs
The sound of bells gets extremely loud! So if you have sensitive ears, bring some earplugs. My brain was ringing after a few hours.
Bring Cash
The market stalls don’t accept cards, do make sure to take cash out before you arrive.
Visit on Friday, or Arrive Early
To secure a spot near the judges, where the performances reach their peak, come early in the day, at around 9 am. Parades begin at 9:30.
Alternatively, you could come on the Friday. The streets are a lot quieter, as many locals are still at work. There are also fireworks on Friday evening to celebrate the opening of the event.
Book a Hotel in Pernik
While it is easy to visit Pernik on a day trip from Sofia, consider staying the night in the small town. You can enjoy the streets when they are empty of people. And drink as much mulled wine as you would like before stumbling home. There is also a fascinating Underground Mining Museum, where you can descend 30 meters to learn about Pernik’s coal mining past.
The best – and one of the only – hotels in town is Hotel Elit. It has a sauna, a fitness center, and great views over the city and the nearby Vitosha mountain from the upper floors.
What is your favorite carnival or masquerade festival? Let me know in the comments.
Ellie x
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