Menton is a remnant of how the French Riviera must have looked before developers moved in and poured concrete on it. This small, historic town is well worth a visit for anyone who wants to get off the beaten track on France’s Mediterranean coast.
I first heard of Menton, France, in a scribbled note on the back of one of my grandad’s paintings. It showed a dark alleyway, painted in tones of beige and grey. At the end of the narrow street, he painted an arched passageway leading under a house.
The only flashes of colour are the dusty green shutters, and the clothes on a washing line dangling lopsidedly on the left hand side. Grandad’s painting was poetic, a snippet of rural French life.
When I found out that Menton was right on the Mediterranean village, I knew I had to visit and find out – seventy years later, is Menton worth visiting?
The French Riviera, 70 Years Ago
My Grandad painted the picture in 1954. That was the year he had spent all his savings on a rusty old motorbike. He proposed to my Grandma, who said yes! and jumped in the sidecar.
They got on a boat to Europe (from the United Kingdom) and drove around. My Grandad was a passionate painter. He would go on to design Princess Diana and Prince Charles’ wedding invitations. Back in the early 50s, he captured their journey in a series of paintings and sketchbooks.
When Grandad passed away a few years ago, he left behind him a hoarder-like house filled with decades of old glasses and used sponges, broken things he never got around to fix, and entire rooms full of magnificent artwork.
One of them was this painting of a dark street, that my mother and I were slightly fascinated by. The atmosphere it conveys is one of homely intimacy, reigned over by a sort of bleakness. The buildings are beautiful but the viewer is filled with sadness more than awe.
“This one’s in a place called Menton, in the bottom corner of France, right next to Italy”, my mum told me. “You should go and see where it was painted”. I was planning a trip down there, to see a friend in nearby Nice. “Yeah, I’ll go and find it,” I said. My mum sighed, “there’s not much hope, though. A lot has changed down there since 1954.”
Menton, France in the 21st Century
I drove in my grandparent’s ghostly tire tracks, diagonally across France from the North Western tip, to the most South-Eastern point. As I reached the Mediterranean coast, I began to see what my mother meant. The French Riviera, today, is 550 miles of concrete. A coastal road nudges the sea, passing by hotel after hotel. The entire region feels like a chlorinated water park.
There are still some beautiful towns clinging to the cliffs, of course. Nice and Marseille to name just the largest. I was afraid that there wouldn’t be much of Menton left, and yet, as I approached it, I saw beautiful pastel-coloured houses cascaded from the clifftop to the sea, dainty church towers pointing into the sky, followed by the spindly masts of sailboats.
Menton isn’t very well known to international tourists, although it is one of the pride and joys of locals — known as the “pearl of France”, or at least that’s what its tourist board says.
I strolled around, feeling suddenly close to my Grandad. He would have felt the same joy and awe at a pretty house, a glowing warm climate, and narrow streets that feel like a maze. I kept seeing alleys that looked like the one he painted, but I could never quite find one that looked identical. I wish he had been there to ask. I took a photo of every single one, anyway.
What Makes Menton Special?
Unlike much of the Riviera, Menton feels preserved — not in a kitschy, over-touristed way, but in the way that locals still live here, still hang their laundry out across the streets, still sit outside their doors in the evenings chatting and shelling peas. There are several things that make the town special:
1. The Architecture and Colours
Menton’s buildings are painted in shades of peach, rose, mustard, and gold. The facades are chipped and weathered, but beautiful. Walking through the Old Town feels like exploring a Renaissance painting come to life.
2. The Atmosphere
There’s a stillness to Menton that you don’t find in its flashier neighbours. Even in summer, the pace is slower. Locals smile and say hello. You’ll find families lingering over long lunches, elderly women walking to market, and barely a tour group in sight.
3. The Botanical Gardens
Menton is famous for its gardens. Thanks to a unique microclimate — warmer and sunnier than the rest of the coast — the town is lush with exotic plants. Don’t miss the Jardin Serre de la Madone or the Val Rahmeh Botanical Garden.
4. Its Lemon Festival
Every February, Menton explodes into colour with its famous Fête du Citron. Giant sculptures made of lemons and oranges parade through town. It’s whimsical, odd, and completely wonderful.
5. Its Location
Just 30 minutes from Nice, and right next to the Italian border, Menton makes the perfect base for a quieter French Riviera experience.
Menton vs. Monaco: A Stark Contrast
From Menton, I drove on to Monaco, a microstate of Europe’s filthy rich. It was the epitome of everything that has gone wrong in the touristic development of the Mediterranean coast.
A growth of ugly, gaudy hotels, interspersed with wealth-management offices, banks, and real estate agencies.
As I walked around, looking at people driving their Lamborghini and Porsches around and around the country’s only real road, I thought back to Menton. It could almost have been a dream, but I was happy that there was a tiny part of the coast that Grandad would still feel the desire to paint
FAQ: Visiting Menton, France
How do I get to Menton, France?
Menton is easily accessible by train from Nice (30-40 minutes), or by car. It’s the last stop before the Italian border.
When’s the best time to visit Menton?
Spring and autumn are ideal, with warm weather and fewer tourists. If you love quirky festivals, visit in February for the Lemon Festival.
Is Menton expensive?
Compared to Monaco or Nice, Menton is surprisingly affordable — especially when it comes to food and accommodation.
What language is spoken in Menton?
French is the main language, but Italian and English are also widely understood due to the town’s proximity to the border.
Is overtourism a problem in Menton?
Overtourism is not currently a major issue in Menton. While the town attracts visitors during events like the annual Fête du Citron (lemon festival) , it hasn’t experienced the severe overcrowding seen in other French destinations.
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