There is only one open border crossing open between Georgia and Russia. The Zemo Larsi – Verkhnij Lars crossing is located at the end of a twisty mountain valley, and one of the most beautiful drives in the world.
I spent a long weekend driving the Georgian Military Road in December 2024 and can only recommend this overlanding adventure. You’ll pass through stunning parts of the Caucasus mountain range, iconic sites like the Gergeti Trinity Church, and towns like Gudauri and Kazbegi. It is a quick and easy way to go from the heart of Tbilisi, to feeling deeply immersed in high mountain peaks, in just a matter of hours.
In this guide to one of the best road trips in Georgia, I’ll tell you what to see and do on the Georgian Military Road. I’ll give advice on how to do the route with your own wheels or by public transport.
History of the Georgian Military Road
The 210-kilometer Georgian Military Highway, connecting Tbilisi, Georgia, with Vladikavkaz, Russia, has been an important trade and military passageway for centuries.
It follows the trace of an ancient route between Asia and Europe, cutting its way through the almost impenetrable Caucasus mountains. The Silk Road ran through here. Caravans of merchants crossing with silk, gens, and spices. During the 18th and 19th centuries, it was a strategic road during multiple Russian military offensives into Georgia.
It is still a busy route, with thousands of trucks passing the border daily. Yet now, amongst the freight, there are a growing number of curious overlanders, drawn by the spectacular mountain views, beautiful towns and monuments along the way.
Places to Visit on the Georgian Military Road
We started our road trip in Tbilisi, and spent four days exploring the sites along the way. From South to North, here are the best places to stop.
Zhinvali Reservoir
You can’t miss this massive man-made lake, about an hour 15 minutes north of Tbilisi. The Georgian Military Road passes around its Western edge, and there are several fabulous photo spots where you can park your car. Snowy peaks reflected in the still, turquoise water, make for a great site.
There are a few souvenir stalls along the lake’s edge, which also sell warm weather gear if you have forgotten anything! Or if you haven’t forgotten anything, but would like an enormous white fluffy hat.
Ananuri Fortress
Set on the side of the Zhinvali reservoir, about ten minutes further along the road than the first view points, Ananuri Fortress is a complex of castle towers and old churches made of stone. Take a look at the stone carvings, the traditional orthodox style of the churches, and the views over the lake
Gudauri
Gudauri is Georgia’s most popular ski resort, yet it has the odd feeling of a motorway service station. A gaggle of buildings are spread out around steep hair pin turns. That being said, the views are spectacular, with a ragged ridge to the West that marks the border with the occupied zone of South Ossetia.
Russian-Georgian Friendship Monument
The relationship between Russia and Georgia has not been smooth sailing. The former has occupied the latter at several points over the last few centuries. On Facebook, the relationship status would definitely be “complicated”.
No matter, the Soviets erected the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument in 1983, overlooking the highway connecting the two countries. It is a cool cylindrical structure, with bright mosaic artwork, and 360 degree views over mountain scenery.
The vibes when we visited were top-notch. A guy had a 360 camera, a speaker and a smoke machine, and was making people’s music video dreams come true. There were a few dozen other tourists, and the layout of the building, with small balconies over looking the mountains, lent itself well to friendly chats. It was silly, fun, and almost felt like a festival.
Jvari Pass
This winding pass marks the highest point of the Georgian Military highway, at 2,395 meters (7,857 feet). It is a magnificent stretch of road, with peaks on all sides. Look out for an rust-colored waterfall on the left hand side, and for the unmissable Mount Kazbek, looming ahead.
Stepantsminda / Kazbegi and Tsminda Church
Known interchangeably as Stepantsminda and Kazbegi, this is the biggest town in the area. It is dominated by the hilltop silhouette of Tsminda Sameba Church, and the tall figure of Mount Kazbek behind it. In fact, this might be the most iconic shot of Georgia.
The church itself is stunning, with many interesting carvings, including one showing two dinosaurs. You can walk up in 1 ½ hours from town. We felt like taking our 4×4 through her tracks, so opted to drive the snowy route up. There are also many cab drivers who offer rides. They might tell you that you won’t make it up in your own vehicle. In truth, most cars will make it up, although if the roads are very snowy, you will need a 4×4.
The town of Stepantsminda has many great hotels and restaurants, and is a great place to stop and rest.
Dariali Monastery Complex
We had been planning to turn around in Stepantsminda. Once there, we had a a feeling that we just had to press on. To finish this historic road that leads from Georgia to Russia, even if we wouldn’t be able to cross. So we set off, to see how far north we could go.
This close to the border, there were many queues of parked trucks waiting for their turn to cross. The roads got bumpy, and snowy. The mountains on either side closed in, till we were driving through a corridor between cliffs. Ahead we could see a wall of rock, the natural ridge that had defined the border between the countries.
Right before the checkpoint, we discovered Dariali Monastery Complex. Stone buildings, including a chapel of deep green marble, stand framed against the jagged rocks. There are some beautiful paintings in one of the upper churches, as well as a collection of crafts made by local nuns.
If you don’t have any more driving to do, you can also enjoy the monastery tasting room, which has homemade wines and chacha (the local brandy). The winemaking room, with traditiona qevri, or amphora, buried in the ground, is well worth a peak.
Planning Your Georgia Road Trip: What to Expect
Road Conditions and Safety
The Georgian Military Highway is paved, and easy to drive the majority of the time. It is still mountainous terrain, meaning that landslides and snowfall happen occasionally, but you can expect it to be relatively smooth sailing from May until November.
Driving the Georgian Military Road in Winter
Driving the Georgian Military Road in winter was a real adventure, and it does requires more forethought than in Summer.
Winter Driving Challenges
- Heavy Snowfall: Snowfall can be intense, sometimes leading to road closures.
- Avalanches and Rockslides: The Jvari Pass is particularly prone to avalanches.
- Ice and Black Ice: Some sections of the highway are extremely slippery.
- Traffic Delays: Due to the conditions, it’s common for trucks and cars to be stranded for hours. Bring patience, and maybe some audio books.
Tips for Driving in Winter
- Check the Weather Before Leaving: Road conditions can change rapidly.
- Equip Your Vehicle Properly: A 4×4 with snow chains is essential in winter. Check you have winter tires, not just all-season tires, which are less grippy on ice.
- Carry Emergency Supplies: Extra food, water, blankets, a first-aid kit, and snacks.
- Start Early and Drive Slowly: Winter days are short, and visibility can drop quickly.
- Consider Hiring a Local Driver: If you’re not used to driving in winter conditions, hiring a local guide is the smart option.
Where to Stay Along the Georgian Military Road
There is no shortage of accommodation along the Georgian Military Road. Here are my recommendations, based on where you want to stop.
Best Place to Stay in Gudauri
The views from this hotel’s large windows, looking out on 180 degrees of sheer Caucasian peaks, are hard to beat. In winter, this is a ski-in ski-out hotel. There is a comfortable shared lounge and kitchen area.
Best Place to Stay in Stepantsminda / Kazbegi
We had a great night in this hotel, which has a friendly owner, and comfortable rooms with balconies looking out at Mount Kazbeg and Tsminda Church. In summer, you can enjoy a hammock on the balcony. There is a large communal kitchen and lounge space, ideal for resting and chatting with fellow travelers.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) About the Georgian Military Road
Is the Georgian Military Road Dangerous?
Generally speaking, the Georgian Military Highway is a completely safe drive on good roads with spectacular alpine scenery. However, during winter, heavy snowfall, avalanches, and black ice make it one of the most dangerous highways in Georgia. Check the weather, and ask locals if you have any doubts about conditions.
Some sections, especially around Jvari Pass at 2,379 meters, are prone to sudden weather changes and fog. Landslides and falling rocks can be a hazard, year round, especially after heavy rain.
Do I need a 4×4 to drive the Georgian Military Road?
We were grateful to have a 4×4 on snowy sections of the road, and when going off on side trails. For most of the year, though, you can get by just fine with two wheel drive.
Where can I rent a car to drive the Georgian Military Highway?
My favorite option for renting a car in Georgia is Local Rent. We paid around 20$ a day for a great 4×4. It was delivered and picked up from our accommodation in Tbilisi.
Can I do the Georgian Military Highway with Public Transport, or do I need my own car?
While having your own wheels is the most practical way of doing the Georgian Military Road, it is possible to do it by public transport. Several mashrutky, or minibuses, connect Tbilisi and Stepantsminda.
You can ask to get off anywhere along the way, allowing you to discover any of the sites, although you might have to wait a while for the next mashrutka to pass.
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